Barcelona for not so long, ya!
I had already been to Barcelona twice prior, so my intention here is just having some downtime while spending it with a couple of my favourite peoples - Joachim and Gemma, with the former I worked with in London a few years ago. No touristy activities on the cards, I will spend my time eating and sleeping. And also try out different blogging/website builder tools - and here we are, as you see here, is the fruit of that labour! Tada! Voila!
The two and half days that I spend in Barcelona generally involves me waking up, eat breakfast, bum around a bit, go somewhere for a light snack, have lunch, bum around a bit more, Gemma comes back from work, and we hit the streets for cañitas (small beer) and tapas before having dinner at a Spanish-acceptable time of 8 to 9.
It’s nice that I don’t have to worry about waking up at a specific time, or lug my camera around.
A city with two names
San Sebastian, or Donostia as it is called locally, sits north of Barcelona along the coast near the border of France just to the east. During my one-week intermission back in London between Iceland and this leg, two friends separately suggested that I visit the town. Since its direction is opposite of Valencia, I decided to skip it, and go with the recommendation of those I trust. Unlike Iceland, where there were many long drives and long days, the plan from now on is to go much slower, and much easier.
The city centre itself, like many European cities, has two very distinct areas - an old town, and the town that was built as it spread. The old town consists a large density of tapas bars, and is where it is the most touristy. I stay at a hostel in Gros, east of the river, a small walk away from the action.
Food, glorious food
Tapas, or pintxos, can either be hot or cold. The cold dishes are on display at the bar, while the hot ones are ordered separately. Some of the hot dishes can also be ordered as full size meals, instead of just in tapas form. This is the main issue for a solo traveller; I can only order and eat so much by myself. And I was always told to finish my food.
Atari Gastroleku. A glass of beer on one side, and a plate of bready snacks on the other - although perhaps not the best the restaurant has to offer (see above reason), the restaurant is buzzing and oozing with atmosphere. As a first experience of the food here, it does not disappoint.
Borda Berri. Determined not to make the same mistake again, I find out exactly what I need to order going in. This little bar delivers a big punch in flavour. Unlike Atari, they only serve hot dishes, and I order a handful of dishes - all of them delicious, including rice with cheese sauce, pigs ear, and the juicy, melt-in-your-mouth veal belly pictured above. This is a must-go location. You know this, because just before the doors open for custom, a number of Asians, including myself are waiting to enter.
La viña. Prior to arriving in the town, I had been told to visit the city’s specialty dish - a cheesecake with slightly burnt edges and a soft gooey cheesy centre. A single racion consists of two slices of the renowned dessert, and I eat both with little effort, but I later find out that a media racion (half ration) with only one slice is available to order.
On the Thursday night, a young enthusiastic ABC (America-born Chinese) staying in the same room, informs us that there is a group of people on the street outside the hostel, where the neighbouring bars are serving pintxo and beer for a thrifty €2.50. By then, I am already in bed, with the iPad, ready to turn in. However, a Leeds-based traveller and I eventually comply at her urging, and trudge our way out. There are in fact a lot of people on the streets, and we hop between a couple of the bars, eating and drinking, as we chat about whatevers.
Taking the scenic route
You’d think that I am only going to talk about the food I consume, but as a coastal town, there is also much to see. Two main beaches lie on either sides of the bridge, and a Jesus hill (Mount Urgull) next to the old town. With 3 days to spend, I use one of the days to walk up Mount Urgull and another to walk along the coast eastwards to the next town over called Pasaia. The former with wonderful views of the town that I am visiting (and Jesus overlooking it), and the latter affording me scenaries of sheer cliffs and the sea splashing against them.
The trek to Pasaia is a lightly more ambitious affair as it consists mixed terrains, compared to the mostly-paved tracks and roads up Mount Urgull. The initial section of the walk worries me a little, as I walk up steep hills and steps, but as it settles, it is a much breezier activity. There are families, runners, dog owners, solo walkers of varying ages as I progress around the coast, with some going in the same direction, and some against. Overall, my feeling is that it is much easier to walk from San Sebastian to Pasaia as it seems like I am going downhill more than I am going up, even with the early struggles, but as I am having this thought, I see the path ascending before me. This ends up not being very long, and I make swift work of it.
When I arrive at the town of Pasaia, there is a bus that can take me back to San Sebastian, but of course I don’t take it.
It’s LeOFF, and SantiaGO.
My eventual last destination in Spain needs to be Santiago de Compostela (SdC as I’ll refer to it from now on), so that I can then take a bus to cross the border to Portugal, but the train from San Sebastian to SdC is a rather arduous 10.5 hours. However, as I look to break the journey up by taking a pitstop in León, I cannot find available beds in hostels, and even hotel choices are limited; there is apparently a music festival on called Purple Weekend. I frown, and fire up Google Maps to find other notable towns that I can visit, but come up with nought. Alas, I have to bear the day-long train ride.
I know very little of this little town, but the weather is dreary and grey, and as I arrive with my rucksack and backpack, I realise that it is also very hilly. Walking downhill to the hostel, I dread that I will eventually have to do the same trip again with my belongings going upwards. I remember that I am catching the bus to Portugal, and that hopefully the bus station is downhill or at least a flat walk - it is not.
As a backpacker, one of the things that we just have to do, is to do the laundry. It’s boring, but it has to be done. The clothes into a washing machine, I have half an hour to spare to go to lunch. When I arrive at Taberna O Gato Negro (a recommendation by Gemma), there is a line to be seated or stand at the bar; a family gets in just before me, but are dissuaded by the wait, as they’ll need to sit at a table, rather than the bar with a higher turnover. After a while, I eventually get a spot at the bar and order 3 dishes - pulpo (octopus), mussels and Galician cheese, and as usual, a glass of beer as my beverage of choice. Since the mussels and cheese are served cold, they arrive first with a side of bread and beer. The cheese is delicious - it’s a soft cheese, but isn’t overly so, with a mild taste; I think it’s the Goldilocks of cheeses! The signature octopus dish arrives, and is pretty similar to the ones I have had in other Spanish cities, but it’s super fresh, tender and tasty. I look around what other locals have ordered, and a pair of ladies had ordered just a plate of clams after waiting for some time, so I wonder if I probably should do the same. By then though, with 3 plates of food in my stomach, I can’t eat anymore.
Adiós!
Having done very little the previous day, I trek to The City of Culture of Galicia. I am not sure what the purpose of this place is, but it doesn’t look complete, and may have been a product of ambitious tourism goals. The architecture there takes a more modern approach, and in the distant, you can see the town.
The 10-day trip in Spain is complete and I will head to Portugal. I have had wonderful food along the way, and although the scenary can’t be beaten by what I saw in Iceland, they still offer their own charm and beauty…which, I think, is also what parents tell their uglier children. You know who they are!